Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Red Heart Coordinating Colors



RED HEART CLASSIC YARN
  The following are suggested solid coordinates to the multicolors.
  An asterisk (*) indicates a color that blends, but is not an exact
  match.
  Colors 1 - White, 3 - Off White and 111 - Eggshell are not listed,
  but
  coordinate with most
  of the multicolors

  MULTICOLOR        SOLID COORDINATES
  168 Star Brights..............230-Yellow, 730-Grenadine, 513-Parakeet
               
  963 Rambling Rose.............683-Lt Seafoam, 755-Pale Rose, 684-
  Seafoam,
  759-Cameo
  Rose

  930 Hushabye..................261-Maize, 719-Lily Pink, 681-Mist
  Green,
  815-Pale Blue

  964 Lullaby...................261-Maize, 719-Lily Pink, 681-Mist Green

  940 Salsa.....................252-Medium Coral, 508-Peacock Green,
  365-Coffee, 914-Country
  Red

  972 Wedgewoods................759-Cameo Rose, 808-Windsor Blue, 761-
  Light
  Berry,
  882-Country Blue*, 762-Claret

  950 Mexicana..................230-Yellow, 686-Paddy Green, 245-
  Orange, 849
  Olympic Blue,
  588-Amethyst, 914-Country Red

  973 Berries...................755-Pale Rose, 761-Light Berry, 759-
  Cameo Rose,
  762-Claret

  951 Tropical Fruits...........261-Maize, 815-Pale Blue, 737-Pink, 818-
  Blue
  Jewel

  974 Country Blues.............808-Windsor Blue, 882-Country Blue

  954 Rainbow Brights...........230-Yellow, 513-Parakeet

  977 Country Club..............808-Windsor Blue, 334-Tan, 750-Med.
  Coral Rose,
  683-Lt
  Seafoam*

  976 Stars & Stripes...........849-Olympic Blue, 912-Cherry Red

  978 Niagra....................48-Teal, 827-Lt Periwinkle

  981 Pastels...................719-Lily Pink, 818-Blue Jewel, 737-
  Pink,
  815-Pale Blue
     
  985 Purples...................584-Lavender, 588-Amethyst

  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
  RED HEART SUPER SAVER COLOR MATCHES

  MULTICOLOR                SOLID COORDINATES
  303 Painted Desert Print......387-Soft Navy, 376-Burgundy, 334-Buff,
  633-Dark
  Sage

  304 Aurora Print..............356-Amethyst, 388-Teal, 321-Gold, 376-
  Burgundy

  307 Circus Print..............312-Black, 356-Amethyst, 324-Bright
  Yellow,
  390-Hot Red

  345 Baby Print................322-Pale Yellow, 373-Petal Pink, 364-
  Light
  Mint, 381-Light Blue

  392 Wedgewood.................372-Rose Pink, 382-Country Blue, 374-
  Country
  Rose

  394 Lullaby...................322-Pale Yellow, 373-Petal Pink, 364-
  Light Mint

  394 Cottage Garden............366-Mint, 382-Country Blue, 372-Rose
  Pink

  399 Fiesta Jewel Print........384-Skipper Blue, 385-Royal

  930 Hushaby...................322-Pale Yellow, 381-Lt. Blue, 364-
  Light Mint,
  724-Baby Pink

  950 Mexicana..................245-Orange, 356-Amethyst, 319-Cherry
  Red,
  368-Paddy Green,
  324-Bright Yellow, 385-Royal

  952 Gumdrop...................322-Pale Yellow, 364-Light Mint, 353-
  Lilac,
  372-Rose Pink

  957 Shaded Greens.............389-Hunter Green

  958 Grape Ivy.................358-Lavender, 389-Hunter Green, 387-
  Soft Navy

  959 Gemstone..................388-Teal, 356-Amethyst, 687-Grass Green

  960 Shaded Blues..............347-Light Periwinkle, 385-Royal Blue,
  384-Skipper Blue

  962 Seascape..................320-Cornmeal, 362-Spruce, 347-Light
  Periwinkle

  963 Rambling Rose.............372-Rose Pink, 374-Country Rose

  967 Holly and Ivy.............334-Buff, 631-Lt Sage, 349-Lt Coral
  Rose,
  633-Dk Sage,
  378-Claret

  968 Starbrights...............324-Bright Yellow, 358-Lavender, 351-
  Parakeet,
  375-Raspberry

  971 Camoflage.................12-Black

  977 Country Club..............334-Buff, 362-Spruce, 349-Lt Coral
  Rose,
  881-Med Windsor
  Blue

  983 Christmas.................311-White, 390-Hot Red, 368-Paddy Green

  998 Bubblegum.................324-Bright Yellow, 385-Royal, 375-
  Raspberry,
  687-Grass
  Green,955-Delft Tile, 322-Pale Yellow, 347-Light Periwinkle

  4996 Ragg.....................400-Grey Heather

  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
  Multicolor Coordinates for Red Heart Soft Yarn
      Red Heart does not have  list of coordinating colors for the RH
  Soft as
  they
  do for the
      Classic and Super Saver yarns, so these colors are based on
  viewing
  swatch
  card in strong
      sunlight and making a "guesstimate" of the matching colors.
    A * indicates a color that blends, but is not an exact match. 

  MULTICOLOR                SOLID COORDINATES
  7935 Floral...................7675-Dk Yellow Green, 7774-Dk Blush,
  7320-Lt
  Wheat

  7952 Gem......................7769-Fuchsia, 7589-Amethyst, 7508-Teal

  7937 Polo.....................7587-Deep Purple,    7675-Dk Yellow
  Green,
  7322-Gold,
  7760-Cranberry

  7955 Autumn...................7285-Rust, 7368-Brown, 7675-Dk Yellow
  Green,
  7744-Dk Blush,
  7320-Lt Wheat

  7939 Key West.................7815-Lt Blue, 7664-Lt Blue Green*, 7582-
  Lt
  Amethyst,

  7965 Nursery..................7815-Lt Blue, 7313-Aran*, 7722-Lt Rose

  7946 Hollyberry...............7320-Lt Wheat, 7744-Dark Blush, 7675-Dk
  Yellow
  Green

  7970 Country Cottage..........7664-Lt Blue Green, 7883-Country Blue,
  7775-Country Rose,
  7675-Dk Yellow Green

  7952 Gem......................7769-Fuchsia, 7589-Amethyst, 7508-Teal


Watercolor.....353 Lilac, 531 Lt. Plum, 579 Pale Plum, 631 Lt. Sage,
661 Frosty Green

Artist Print.....336 Warm Brown, 528 Med. Purple, 632 Med. Sage

Monet.....322 Pale Yellow, 347 Lt. Periwinkle, 358 Lavender

Pinata  (Lt. Raspberry, RH Cornmeal, RH Lavender

Red Heart Kids

2945 Bikini (2230 Yellow,  2252 Orange   2734 Pink  2850  Turquois)

2932 Citris (2230 Yellow,  2252 Orange, 2652 Lime)


2935 Sherbert  (2652  Lime, 2734, Pink, 2347 Periwinkle, 2230 Yellow)

2940  Beach  (2845  Blue,  2850 Turquois,  2652 Lime)

Orchid- Medium Purple; most of the blues including Lt. Periwinkle; the
Raspberries

Ocean- blue, pale plum, lt lavender, lt periwinkle, and lt teal
(discontinued).

Friday, April 21, 2006

CIC vests

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I finished these last week or so. I also made some crocheted Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.usversions, but after washing they seem more than slightly disproportionate to me - I'm not sure if I'll frog them or send them anyway. The width is a little too short (I swear I measured/did the math for 26", and they came out about 23" after washing) & the length is definitely much longer than planned - they look like dresses! I may not bother frogging them as they'll probably fit someone.

All of the vests were made from Claudia's "In My Pocket" vest, minus the pockets. They were knit using size 9 or 10.5 inch circ needles & used 4 strands of fingering weight yarn or 2-3 strands of fingering plus a strand of sport/worstened weight.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

10 Reasons to Buy Lots of Yarn


I've found this on one of Russian (yes, Russians can read English:-
) Craft Groups sent from Israel. 
There are lots of us who would agree with every reason!
Enjoy!


1. It insulates the cupboard where it is kept.

2. It keeps the economy moving. It is my patriotic duty to support
woolfarmers, textile mills, and yarn shops.

3. It is less expensive and more fun than psychiatric care.

4. I'm participating in a contest - the one who dies with the most
yarnwins!

5. It keeps without refrigeration, you don't have to cook it to
enjoy it, you never have to feed it, change it, wipe its nose or
walk it.

6. Because I'm worth it.

7. Like dust, it's good for protecting previously unprotected spaces
in the house, like the ironing board, the laundry basket, the dining
room table.

8. It's not immoral, illegal or fattening. It calms the nerves,
ratifies the soul, and makes me feel good.

9. Because it is on sale. Because that is such a beautiful colour...
I've never seen it before... I must have it.

10. Buy it now, before your husband retires and goes with you on all
your shopping expeditions

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Circular Bottom-Up Regular length Straight Pullover with Ribbing

 

Circular Bottom-Up Regular length Straight Pullover with Ribbing

Raglan shoulder with Full length Lantern/Straight sleeves with Ribbing

Flat front neck and Flat back neck with Single Band collar

Printed: 4/18/2006

Pattern File Name: X

Size: Standard Woman 38 for Anastacia

Date started: 4/18/2006 Finished: *

YARN DESCRIPTION:

*; scraps; *; *

GAUGE DATA:

Gauge (Stocking Stitch over 4 in = 10 cm): 15.0 sts by 20.0 rows.

Body knit by hand on # 8 US circular needles

Ribbing knit by hand on # 6 US circular needles

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: (ins): ... with Comfortable fit.

Chest: 42.3 Armhole: 19.8 Top Neck Opening: 8.3

Hem Width: 8.3 Front Neck Width: 0.0

Sleeve Top: 15.5 Front Neck Depth: 0.0

Hem Width: 39.5 Sleeve Bottom: 15.5

Sleeve Length: 17.0

Body Length: 24.2 Hem Length: 2.3 Collar Length: 1.0

Hem Length: 2.8

Note: Read ALL these instructions thoroughly BEFORE starting to knit. There may be sections where there are two shapings to work at the same time (such as necklines or waist shaping).

BODY: (HEM TO ARMHOLE)

1. Cast on 148 sts on size 6 circular needle. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the side 'seams' at the beginning and at the halfway point (74 sts). Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.8 ins. Inc 10 sts evenly across the round to 158 sts total.

2. Change to size 8 circular needle and Stocking Stitch. Work even until piece measures 11.4 ins (57 rounds), excluding hem.

SLEEVES: (HEM TO ARMHOLE)

1. Cast on 31 sts on size 6 dp needles. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the 'seam' at the beginning of the round. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.3 ins. Inc 27 sts evenly across the round to 58 sts total.

2. Change to size 8 dp needles and Stocking Stitch.

3. Work even until sleeve measures 14.7 ins (74 rounds), excluding hem.

4. Place these sts on a holder and work the second sleeve.

JOINING BODY AND SLEEVES:

1. Mark the front so you know which part of the body it is.

2. Underarm sts (four sets). Transfer 8 sts to a holder, centred at each of the four 'seam' markers on the body and the sleeves. These sts will be left unworked until the top shaping is complete, then sewn or grafted together to join the body and sleeve at the armhole.

3. Hold (and temporarily pin) the sleeves beside the body (all right side out), with the underarm sts and 'seams' matching. With the right side facing, and starting where the back meets the left sleeve, pick up and knit sts as follows: 50 from the left sleeve, 71 from the front, 50 from the right sleeve and 71 from the back. Total 242 sts. At the same time, place four markers for the raglan shaping, one at each boundary between body and sleeve. Reminder: do NOT work the underarm sts.

RAGLAN YOKE:

1. Work raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st both sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round 8 times, then every 2nd round 12 times. Continue work to total 50 rows for yoke (70 sts remaining).

FLAT FRONT NECK SINGLE BAND COLLAR:

1. Transfer yoke sts to size 6 circular needle.

2. Work 1.0 ins (6 rows) in K1P1 ribbing.

3. Cast off loosely.

FINISHING:

1. Graft or sew the sleeve and body sts together at the underarms.

2. Darn/weave/sew in all loose ends.

NOTES:

Pattern designed by: DEMO DEFAULTS

with KNITWARE DESIGN (Demonstration Version 2.50.2) from Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd

 

short sleeved sweater, circular bottom up

 

KNITWARE SWEATER DESIGN

Circular Bottom-Up Regular length Fitted Waist Pullover with Ribbing

Raglan shoulder with Short Narrow Taper sleeves with Ribbing

Flat front neck and Flat back neck with Single Band collar

Printed: 4/18/2006

Pattern File Name: X

Size: Standard Woman 38 for Anastacia

Date started: 4/18/2006 Finished: *

YARN DESCRIPTION:

*; scraps; *; *

GAUGE DATA:

Gauge (Stocking Stitch over 4 in = 10 cm): 15.0 sts by 20.0 rows.

Body knit by hand on # 8 US circular needles

Ribbing knit by hand on # 6 US circular needles

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: (ins): ... with Comfortable fit.

Chest: 42.3 Armhole: 19.8 Top Neck Opening: 8.3

Waist: 36.7 Hem Width: 10.8 Front Neck Width: 0.0

Hip: 41.6 Sleeve Top: 13.4 Front Neck Depth: 0.0

Hem Width: 39.5 Sleeve Bottom: 12.1

Sleeve Length: 5.1

Body Length: 24.2 Hem Length: 1.0 Collar Length: 1.0

Back Waist Length: 18.3

Hem Length: 2.8

Note: Read ALL these instructions thoroughly BEFORE starting to knit. There may be sections where there are two shapings to work at the same time (such as necklines or waist shaping).

BODY: (HEM TO ARMHOLE)

1. Cast on 148 sts on size 6 circular needle. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the side 'seams' at the beginning and at the halfway point (74 sts). Work in K1P1 ribbing for 2.8 ins. Inc 8 sts evenly across the round to 156 sts total.

2. Change to size 8 circular needle and Stocking Stitch. Work even until piece measures 0.4 ins (2 rounds), excluding hem.

3. Waist Shaping. Dec 1 st at both sides of both seam markers (4 sts per round) on next round , then every following 2nd round 4 times to 136 sts. Work even for 1.0 ins (5 rounds). Inc 1 st at both sides of both seam markers (4 sts per round) on next round , then every following 7th round 4 times to 156 sts. Work even for 2.0 ins (10 rounds) to total 11.4 ins, excluding hem.

SLEEVES: (HEM TO ARMHOLE)

1. Cast on 41 sts on size 6 dp needles. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the 'seam' at the beginning of the round. Work in K1P1 ribbing for 1.0 ins. Inc 4 sts evenly across the round to 45 sts total.

2. Change to size 8 dp needles and Stocking Stitch.

3. Inc 1 st both sides of the marker of every 7th round twice to 49 sts (14 rounds total, excluding hem).

4. Work even until sleeve measures 4.1 ins (21 rounds), excluding hem.

5. Place these sts on a holder and work the second sleeve.

JOINING BODY AND SLEEVES:

1. Mark the front so you know which part of the body it is.

2. Underarm sts (four sets). Transfer 8 sts to a holder, centred at each of the four 'seam' markers on the body and the sleeves. These sts will be left unworked until the top shaping is complete, then sewn or grafted together to join the body and sleeve at the armhole.

3. Hold (and temporarily pin) the sleeves beside the body (all right side out), with the underarm sts and 'seams' matching. With the right side facing, and starting where the back meets the left sleeve, pick up and knit sts as follows: 41 from the left sleeve, 70 from the front, 41 from the right sleeve and 70 from the back. Total 222 sts. At the same time, place four markers for the raglan shaping, one at each boundary between body and sleeve. Reminder: do NOT work the underarm sts.

RAGLAN YOKE:

1. Work raglan shaping as follows: dec 1 st at front/back sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round 8 times, then every 2nd round 12 times. At the same time, dec 1 st at sleeve sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round 10 times, then every 2nd round 9 times. Continue work to total 50 rows for yoke (66 sts remaining).

FLAT FRONT NECK SINGLE BAND COLLAR:

1. Transfer yoke sts to size 6 circular needle.

2. Work 1.0 ins (6 rows) in K1P1 ribbing.

3. Cast off loosely.

FINISHING:

1. Graft or sew the sleeve and body sts together at the underarms.

2. Darn/weave/sew in all loose ends.

NOTES:

Pattern designed by: DEMO DEFAULTS

with KNITWARE DESIGN (Demonstration Version 2.50.2) from Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd


short sleeved sweater

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Circular Top-Down Regular length Fitted Waist Pullover with Ribbing

Raglan shoulder with Short Narrow Taper sleeves with Ribbing

Flat front neck and Flat back neck with Single Band collar

Size: Standard Woman 38

Date started: 4/18/2006

YARN DESCRIPTION:

*; scraps; *

GAUGE DATA:

Gauge (Stocking Stitch over 4 in = 10 cm): 15.0 sts by 20.0 rows.

Body knit by hand on # 8 US circular needles

Ribbing knit by hand on # 6 US circular needles

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: (ins): ... with Comfortable fit.

Chest: 42.3 Armhole: 19.8 Top Neck Opening: 8.3

Waist: 36.7 Hem Width: 10.8 Front Neck Width: 0.0

Hip: 41.6 Sleeve Top: 13.4 Front Neck Depth: 0.0

Hem Width: 39.5 Sleeve Bottom: 12.1

Sleeve Length: 5.1

Body Length: 24.2 Hem Length: 1.0 Collar Length: 1.0

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.usBack Waist Length: 18.3

Hem Length: 2.8

Note: Read ALL these instructions thoroughly BEFORE starting to knit. There may be sections where there are two shapings to work at the same time (such as necklines or waist shaping).

FLAT FRONT NECK SINGLE BAND COLLAR:

1. Cast on 66 sts on size 6 circular needle loosely. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the stitches. Mark the beginning of the round.

2. Work 1.0 ins (6 rows) in K1P1 ribbing. Check that the collar will stretch to fit over the head.

3. Mark the four raglan 'seams' at the following locations: at begining of round, then after stitches 2, 33 and 35.

RAGLAN YOKE:

1. With size 8 needles work raglan shaping as follows: inc 1 st both sides of each raglan marker on every 3rd round 8 times, then every 2nd round 12 times. Total 226 sts.

2. Split the yoke into front, back and sleeve sections as follows. Place each section between markers onto separate holders, leaving back sts on the needle. There should be 71 sts for the back and front sections, and 42 sts for each sleeve.

BODY (ARMHOLE TO HEM):

1. With right side of back facing and Stocking Stitch, start where back joins left sleeve. Cast on 8 sts for underarm, work sts from front holder, cast on 8 sts for second underarm, and finally work across back section. Total 158 sts for body. Mark the side 'seams' at the underarm midpoints (after sts 4 and 83).

2. Waist Shaping. Work even for 2.0 ins (10 rounds). Dec 1 st at both sides of both seam markers on next round (4 sts per round), then every following 7th round 4 times to 138 sts. Work even for 0.8 ins (4 rounds). Inc 1 st at both sides of both seam markers on next round (4 sts per round), then every following 3rd round 3 times to 154 sts. Work even to total 11.4 ins ( 57 rounds) from underarms. Dec 6 sts evenly across the last round to 148 sts.

3. Hem. Change to size 6 needles. Work 16 rounds in K1P1 ribbing. Cast off remaining sts loosely.

SLEEVE (ARMHOLE TO HEM):

1. With right side facing and size 8 needles, re-join yarn and work sts from right sleeve holder. Cast on 8 sts for underarm. Total 50 sts for sleeve. Join the circle, taking care not to twist the sts. Mark the sleeve 'seam' midway on the underarm.

2. Dec 1 st both sides of the marker of every 5th round twice, then every 6th round once to 44 sts (16 rounds total).

3. Work even until sleeve measures 4.1 ins (21 rounds). Dec 3 sts evenly across the last row (41 sts remaining).

4. Hem. Change to size 6 needles. Work 6 rows in K1P1 ribbing. Cast off remaining sts loosely.

5. Work left sleeve in the same way.

FINISHING:

1. Graft or sew the sleeve and body sts together at the underarms.

2. Darn/weave/sew in all loose ends.

Changes

I worked the sleeves before the whole sweater was finished. I just picked up stitches along the armpit, adding extra stitches to eliminate holes, and decreased the extra stitches the next round - ala picking up gusset stitches in a sock. I worked the sleeve much shorter as well than what is stated in the pattern - I worked 4 rounds even, 5th row decreased for a total of 3 times, then I decreased in the next row 4 stitches I believed & worked ribbing for just about an inch.

I worked the ribbing in the arms on size 6 stitches - but wasn't thrilled about the fabric, so used size 5 needles for the ribbing on the bottom.

Sunday, April 16, 2006

happy Easter

Hope everyone had a fabulous day.

I had a great day so far - though I overslept for church. We had lunch with my parents, inlaws, great uncle & uncle, and now I'm with hubby at work. Just waiting for his work to come in, make a few calls & we'll be home free, hopefully soon.

I finally got my holiday socks in from the exchange over the winter, and they are fabulous! I'll be taking a photo & posting it of me wearing my gorgeous socks. Thanks, friend! I loved my box :) & it was so wonderful getting to know you a bit, and I can't believe my socks posed with Stephanie! that's fabulous!! I love the pin, too, it's on my bag.

I did a little crocheting over my parents house - my alpaca & silk shawl I'm making from my birthday yarn. I've been spending the week finishing up a scrap afghan for our bed, I like to make a new one for the bed every couple of years or so. It's my own design, very simple, I'll write up the pattern eventually.

Happy Easter!

Wednesday, April 05, 2006

update

I've been sick with a cold & allergies the last couple of days. Bad timing with my first craft show on Sat. Hopefully I'll be bouncing back soon. I just am going online long enough to d/l my mail, see if there is anything I need to respond to right away, and go back to bed. I spent yesterday knitting CIC vests, working on bags that'll be felted for Saturday, and made a few scrubbies that I sold wholesale on Monday. I only have to make 10, and they're due Saturday, so at least I have no rush.

Sunday, April 02, 2006

Shame on me! No posts... shame, shame!

Well, lots of stuff going on here. I'm doing my first craft show next week, just a small one, but my first ever. Participated in an online craft fair; that was a dud, but it was great advertising at least.

I made a quick CIC vest - approximately a size 4, using some donated wools & leftovers, and it came out darling, I must say. I'll have to post a pic, but I'll wait until I finish another one - 2 more are already on the needles.

I haven't done any knitting or crocheting for me, personally, in forever, but it was really nice to do a quick cic knit. I've missed doing my charity knitting.

Let's see, what have I been crocheting? Water bottle covers/cozies, using a V stitch & adapted from the zillions of patterns online. Making lots of felted bags, felted one of my hats that I made a year or two ago & was always too big for me. It's a wool/mohair blend so it's great for me - I'm always way, way, way too cold.

In our yard saling yesterday, I ran into a woman selling lots & lots of yarn, patterns, hooks, & knit gadgets; prices were great, but just high enough that I had to be good. Picked up 5 - 40 gram balls of a vintage tweed 100% wool (worsted weight) that I was hoping would felt nicely. My sample felted, but I wasn't very happy with the result, so I'll use the yarn for CIC knitting probably, or maybe it'll go into something freeform. We'll see.