At last I typed up the directions for these babies! I forgot what the gauge is off hand, so unfortunately you'll have to wing that part until I did up the socks & measure my own gauge. If you make these, PLEASE give me comments!! As always free to use for your own use or for non profit/charity work. For commercial, email me & we'll deal. Generally if you are making less than 5 or so to sell, you'll have my permission.
Brown Shell Socks
Materials: approx 150 grams of sock weight yarn Divide into 3 50 gram balls if needed. Save 50 grams for afterthought heel.
Size E or F hook or size to get gauge
Two stitch markers or safety pins (a scrap piece of yarn works in a pinch)
Gauge: 3 shells worked in the round to equal 3"
Special stitches: shell stitch: to work shell work (two hdc, ch 1, two hdc) all in same space.
Dec shell: work hdc in space, then (yo, insert hook into same space & draw yarn through, yo, insert hook into ch 1 space of the next shell stitch, yo, & draw through all loops on hook, ch 1, work 2 hdc in ch 1 space
Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook (mark stitch) & in next 8 ch, work 3 sc in last chain stitch, marking center of the 3 sc.
Rounds 2, 3, 4: work in cont rounds, do not slip stitch rounds closed or chain one at beginning of each round, unless otherwise noted. Sc around, working 3 sc in each marked stitch around. At the end of the last round you should have 36 sc. Remove markers.
Round 5: Work shell in first stitch, * skip two sc, work shell, rep from * around.
Round 6: Work shell in each ch one space around.
Repeat for as many rounds as needed to equal two inches less than your total foot length. Measure carefully & mark number of rows of shell pattern, so that when you make your second sock your socks match exactly. I worked 21 shell rounds, which was slightly too big for my 9.5” long feet – 19 or 20 rounds would have been better. Do not end off!
Flatten sock so that your toes are positioned correctly, and mark each side of foot. Work in pattern until you get to your first marker, and then ch 24 for heel, and then continue in pattern on other side of marked stitch. You will finish your heel after the rest of your sock is done! Bring your markers up each round.
Next round: in ch stitches, work shell, skip 2 chains, & repeat across. When you get to the other side of the sock, continue working in pattern.
Repeat last round 2 times if you have a small ankle; 3 if you have a large.
Decrease round: work dec shell over next two shell spaces, work across to next marker, work dec shell over next two shell spaces, con in pattern.
Work two more rounds evenly.
Ribbing: Work 40 dc evenly spaced around.
Round 2 ribbing: work fpdc in first stitch, * work bpdc in next stitch, work fpdc in next stitch, & repeat around from *.
Round 3 & following rows ribbing: Work fpdc in all fpdc stitches & bpdc in all bpdc stitches.
Repeat around for as many desired rows or until you run out the 100 grams of yarn.
Afterthought heel: using 50 gram ball of yarn you separated, work sc evenly around the chain space & onto the other side of the sock. I worked 55 sc around. Work 3 rounds even, then dec 4 sc every other round until 12-15 or so sc remain. Try on your socks frequently at this point & make sure your heel fits you well, and change how often you decrease if needed.
End off, sew seam, and enjoy your socks!